Belgrade is in a celebratory mood after a student-backed list won an outright majority in parliamentary elections last month. The result followed almost two years of protests calling for accountability and an end to corruption, which gathered momentum after a canopy collapsed at Novi Sad’s railway station in November 2024, killing 16 people. A new government has yet to be formed, but the city feels full of possibility.

Set where the Sava and Danube rivers meet, Belgrade combines historic streets and neoclassical and art nouveau buildings with modernist architecture, former industrial sites and new waterfront developments. Its large student population and creative scene contribute to a sociable atmosphere, with busy café terraces by day and bars and clubs open late.

Dorćol is a favourite for exploring on foot, with historic buildings and former workshops now housing independent galleries, coffee shops, bars and restaurants. Other stops include the cobbled streets of Kosančićev Venac, the waterfront restaurants at Beton Hala in Savamala, and Vračar, known for its villas, restaurants and the Nikola Tesla Museum.

For a glimpse of daily life, the guide recommends Zemun Market, Kalenić Market and Palilula Market. Nearby cafés and street-food counters serve everything from roast pork and artisan bread to ćevapi. The National Museum brings together prehistoric finds, Roman artefacts and Serbian and European paintings. Galerija Kula showcases local artists and designers, while the Museum of Contemporary Art is noted for both its modernist building and its collection of Yugoslav modern and contemporary art.

Visitors can explore the city’s street art on a walking tour and workshop with Ljiljana Radosević, or take a cycling tour of New Belgrade’s socialist-era architecture with Still in Belgrade Tours. The broad boulevards, residential blocks and open spaces offer a different perspective on the capital’s history.

For traditional Serbian cooking, Stara Hercegovina serves dishes including čorba, pork knuckle and pljeskavica. Dragoljub offers a contemporary take on Balkan food, while Koordinata focuses on farm-to-table dishes. Stories, beside Kalemegdan Park, specialises in Georgian food such as khinkali dumplings and khachapuri bread. For drinks, the guide points to Ćilim for cocktails and Oliver’s for wine.

Electronic music has been a fixture of Belgrade nightlife for more than two decades. Esthetic Joys Embassy pairs Japanese food with DJ sets, while BIFE is a cocktail and DJ bar in a former shopping centre. Karmakoma hosts techno, house and disco, bringing together international and local performers.

Accommodation options include Pavilion Hotel & Social Club in Dorćol, with doubles from about €89 a night, and the centrally located Hotel Balkan, where doubles start at about €100. Public transport, including buses, trams and trolleybuses, is free; the city has no metro, so visitors can combine transit with walking.

Sources: The Guardian Travel.